Four-patch mug mat

Mark and cut the squares

Wash and press the cotton first. Cut four 3 × 3 in (7.6 × 7.6 cm) squares, two from each color. A ¼ in seam on both sides makes each square finish at 2½ in when joined to other blocks. Four squares in a 2 × 2 layout measure 5½ in across the top, including its outside seam allowance.

Helpful hint · Keep the ruler square with the fabric edge so all four pieces match.

Arrange the four-patch

Lay the squares right side up in two rows. Put color A then color B in the top row; put color B then color A below. This checkerboard layout keeps each pair of colors diagonal. Take a photo or leave the squares in place while you sew.

Sew the two rows

Place the top pair right sides together. Mark a line ¼ in (6 mm) from one edge and sew on that line with small, even backstitches. Repeat for the bottom pair. Knot thread ends securely. Press both seam allowances toward the darker color. Since the darker squares sit on opposite sides of the two seams, the allowances point in opposite directions and can nest when you join the rows.

Join and press the rows

Place the two rows right sides together, matching the center seam. Pin through the seam allowances so they meet. Sew along the marked ¼ in line. Press the new seam open, then check that the top measures about 5½ × 5½ in (14 × 14 cm).

Helpful hint · If the edges differ slightly, trim only the larger edge to square the top.

Layer and baste

Place the backing wrong side up, then center the batting and the patchwork top right side up. Smooth from the center toward each edge. Pin the layers with safety pins about every 2 in (5 cm), keeping pins away from the lines you plan to quilt.

Quilt the layers

Start with a small knot buried between the top and batting. From near the center, use even running stitches through all three layers along both sides of each patchwork seam, about ¼ in (6 mm) away. Work toward the outside edges and remove each safety pin as you reach it. At the end of each line, make two tiny backstitches. Pass the needle through the batting for about 1 in (2.5 cm), bring it out, and clip the thread close to hide the tail. Follow the batting label for maximum spacing.

Trim and bind the edge

Trim the batting and backing even with the 5½ in top. Fold the binding strip in half lengthwise with wrong sides together and press. Leave a 3 in tail, then sew its raw edge to the quilt front with a ¼ in seam. At each corner, stop ¼ in from the edge, stitch off at a 45° angle, fold the strip up and away to make a diagonal crease, then fold it back down along the next edge. Near the start, leave a 3 in gap. Open the binding folds on both loose tails and lay them along the quilt edge so their short ends meet at the middle of the gap. Mark each tail ¼ in beyond that meeting point and trim at the marks. Put the short ends right sides together, pin, and sew ¼ in from the raw edges. Press the seam open and refold the binding. Check the joined strip lies flat and reaches the quilt edge; then pin it in place and sew the remaining gap with a ¼ in seam. Fold the binding to the back and stitch the folded edge down with small whipstitches that catch the backing.