Dillmont’s source illustration of sloping stem stitch, figure 173
Source illustrationAbout this imageSource illustration, figure 173, for the sloping stem-stitch method. The instructions also cover straight stem stitch, figure 172.

Historical guide · Modern adaptation

Straight and sloping stem stitch

Practice two line stitches from a historical embroidery guide, one worked over a foundation thread and one worked without it.

Beginner45–90 minutes, editorial estimatePractice lines are your choice; no finished project is specified

Before you begin

Materials

  • Plain-woven cotton or linen practice cloth
  • Embroidery floss or sewing cotton
  • Embroidery needle
  • Embroidery hoop if helpful
  • Pencil or removable fabric marker
  • Scissors

One step at a time

Step-by-step instructions

5 steps
  1. 1

    Draw two practice lines

    Mark two short, gently curved lines on a fabric scrap. The source gives stitch methods rather than a finished motif, so these lines are a modern practice exercise.

  2. 2

    Prepare the straight stem stitch

    On the first line, sew a small running foundation line. Bring the needle up just below the foundation thread, then insert it just above and bring it out underneath the foundation thread. Work from left to right. For delicate cloth, take up only the small amount of fabric the foundation thread covers.

  3. 3

    Keep the stitches even

    Repeat along the line, placing the needle above the foundation thread and bringing it out below. Keep the thread tension steady so the line lies flat.

  4. 4

    Try the sloping version

    On the second line, omit the foundation thread. Insert the needle from right to left at a slant, passing under one or two horizontal fabric threads and five or six perpendicular threads, as the source describes. Each stitch reaches about halfway back to the previous one.

  5. 5

    Compare the two lines

    Look at the front and back. Notice how the foundation changes the straight version and how the sloping version follows the cloth threads. Secure the thread on the back. Add a monogram or floral shape only if you have a separate design to follow.

Modern adaptation. Check materials, measurements, and gauge before beginning.

Historical guide · Modern adaptation

From Encyclopedia of Needlework

Original heading: Straight stem stitch and Sloping stem stitch · “White Embroidery,” “Straight stem stitch” and “Sloping stem stitch,” figs. 172–173

Read the original wording and adaptation notes

Original wording

Straight stem stitch (fig. 172 ).—Work from left to right. The needle must always be inserted above the run thread, and brought out underneath it. In the case of a very delicate pattern, take up only just as much stuff as the run thread covers. Sloping stem stitch (fig. 173 ).—Work without a run thread; insert the needle from right to left in a slanting direction, under 1 or 2 horizontal threads, and 5 or 6 perpendicular ones; so that each stitch reaches halfway back to the last. This kind of stem stitch is chiefly used for the fine upstrokes of letters and numbers, and for linen embroidery.

What changed for this modern edition

  • The source teaches the stitch methods but does not include a project-sized motif here. The modern marked lines are a practice exercise.
  • The directions retain the source’s thread-count description for sloping stitches. On a different weave, use it as a guide and keep the stitch length consistent.
  • The modern practice guide has not been physically sample-stitched.
View the original source illustration
Dillmont’s source illustration of sloping stem stitch, figure 173
Source illustration, figure 173, for the sloping stem-stitch method. The instructions also cover straight stem stitch, figure 172. This is a scan from the historical source, not a finished-project photograph.

Public domain in the USA. Rights status can differ outside the United States.

View the digitized book at Project Gutenberg

This Project Gutenberg source identifies itself as an English edition but gives no publication year. No year is inferred here.

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